(Updated from the original post dated )
Kia Ora from Turangi (Winter edition)
Kia Ora Turangi
Now that snow has arrived at Whakapapa, the Winter tourist season is here. That indicates no camper vans (no freedom campers!), skis and snow boards on car roofs, trout spawning runs, long walks in the wilderness, gloves & scarves, frosty starts followed by stunning days, yeah right! So today is all about winter holiday tourism attractions.
Tourism research website blogs advise TRM that mature forward-thinking ‘moteliers’ (like SWMBO? (She Who Must Be Obeyed is the Manager of tourists at TRM) need to respond more to prospective guests’ new hunger for local experiences by moving beyond their traditional motel brand marketing efforts…
i.e. What guests really want to know is:
What’s right outside your front door?
What can they walk to?
Where can they find the best local fare?
Where can they catch a good happy hour?
Where is the best running track?
Where can they buy locally made items they won’t find anywhere else?
Motels need to concentrate on local and neighbourhood content.
So SWMBO’s response follows for your Winter holiday programme…
In 2016 each week the NZ Herald Travel Supplement on Tuesdays used to review a small town. Now the winter tourist season has started so today it is Turangi’s turn for their own updated version. This is the BIG one…
Tongariro River Motel has prepared a completely unbiased (?) local winter version using the same format as NZ Herald for tourists’ consideration…
Turangi Winter holiday attractions…
Origins:
Turangi is an abbreviation of Turangitukua, a Maori leader who must have been a great fisherman. Their tribal land was acquired by the Government to develop Turangi township during the 1970’s. It is now a popular tourist town. The following explains why…
Population:
About 2900 and, strangely, still steadily falling. About 1970 it peaked at somewhere between 7000 and over 9000 (depending on who you believe) for the Tongariro Hydro Development but in 12 years since, Turangi resident population fell 14% while the rest of NZ rose 11%. About 64% are permanent resident-occupied homes with 36% holiday homes. The hope for the future are the smart Auckland refugees trading stress and traffic jams for relaxed lifestyle and longer life….and fishing… Otherwise they compromise and invest in a holiday apartment at TRM (Tongariro River Mews).
Where is it:
Halfway to everywhere – located where SH 1 crosses the Tongariro River and is surrounded by National Parks with dual world heritage status. Midway Wellington (320km) & Auckland (330km). Midway Napier & New Plymouth. Midway Hamilton and Palmerston North. Midway Tokoroa & Taihape. Midway Paradise and Heaven.
Town Slogan:
“Trout Fishing Capital of the World”. When the Taupo Council tried to relabel the town as “The Source of Great Lake Taupo” a Facebook appeared to “Save the Signs” to reflect the passion of locals for trout fishing. They have since removed the offending “source” sign to restore local pride. But when an enterprising motel erected a sign proclaiming “Welcome to Turangi – Trout Fishing Capital of the World” they were fined $300 the next day! They are still waiting for a Council apology…
Source of Pride:
Trout Fishing Capital of the World. Tongariro River is a world-renowned wild trout fishing paradise offering fly fishing all year from over 50 pools. More books have been written about trout fishing on the Tongariro than all other rivers in NZ combined. (The best of those – “Tongariro Skulduggery” – is not about fishing. It is far better than that and only available in every unit at TRM.)
Local mysteries?
Excavations for the Tongariro Power Development unearthed 16 pre-Maori villages, 246 pre-Maori dwellings, artifacts (like a 45 cm adze) carbon dated around 400 AD, etc. originally occupied by Moa Hunters, Fairy folk, and Hobbits. In 1970 the Turangi Museum displayed the artifacts. Where are they now? See “Best Kept Secrets” below…
Turangi is a tourist town. The biggest tourist business is trout fishing. The fishery managers are DOC (Department of Conservation). Turangi is surrounded by National Parks with miles of tracks and huts all managed by DOC. But if you have a question, where is their office? Where are they hiding? How do you find them? Most fishermen don’t know where. Hint – they are in the CBD past the pie shop opposite the library.
Town Mascots:
Rainbow trout, Brown trout, Wild trout. Trophy trout. Big trout, Beautiful trout, Huge Trout, Fresh run trout, Maori trout, Angry trout, More trout.
Famous anglers:
All TRM inmates plus others who loved Turangi and fished the Tongariro River since the 1920’s include American author Zane Grey (returned three times to write about it and tried to buy the river), Duchess of York (the late Queen’s mother), Queen Elizabeth, President Jimmy Carter, film stars and many other celebrities – an incredible world famous trout fishing reputation.
Best local website:
What a question – we are so embarrassed that you even had to ask? You are reading it (but sometimes you need to read between the lines…). The only tourist motel accommodation website in NZ with its own Fishing (?) Reports and Facebook updated several times each day. The website has done more to promote Turangi for the last 20 years than the entire Taupo council.
Main Employer:
Turangi’s tourist industry is developed around the trout fishing on the Tongariro River – 8 motels, 8 cafes, various B&B’s and backpackers – offering accommodation and facilities for every taste – from upmarket superior lodges to low cost camping ground, numerous B&B’s, superior dining to takeaways – something for everyone. The other major employer is the timber industry with the two largest offices in town for NZ Forestry Managers and Lake Rotoaira Forest Trust.
Town fiesta (?):
None really… Tourists get excited if Easter is late enough to feature the many autumn colours from the mature deciduous trees that predominate through Turangi. The nearest thing to a fiesta is watching an All-Black v’s Springboks game at Turangi Tavern. Even West Islanders enjoy it. Or if we have missed it someone is sure to correct us.
Best reason to visit in winter:
From 1st July the ski fields have been open. Whakapapa is the largest best ski field with the most facilities in NZ. So you don’t ski? Neither does SWMBO. But it is still a great day out to play in the snow and catch a gondola to the highest cafe in the Southern hemisphere (it used to have the worst coffee in the Southern hemisphere (according to one guest last season – but it has improved since then. She bet me a bottle of wine I would not put it on the web…). On your trip back to Whakapapa don’t stop at the Chateau for their “high tea” – they have closed… Another covid casualty.
Best reason to stop in Winter:
The National Tongariro Trout Centre is hard to beat. It includes a trout fishing museum, an underground viewing chamber to view trout in a spawning stream, and they hold a kids’ day – the only guaranteed way to catch a trout in Turangi. Now they even farm trout for local iwi. Amazing…
Best place to take kids:
Tongariro Trout Centre (aka trout farm factory?)
The guaranteed trout you catch are worth more than the admission…
A fun day for the whole family.
To avoid disappointment bookings are essential
Best local one hour hike
Hike around the (1 hour) loop track from Koura Street across the Tongariro River swing bridge, head north past famous fishing pools Major Jones Pool, Judges Pool, etc., and up and over the hill providing wide views over Turangi and Lake Taupo beyond and return across the SH1 road bridge to watch the anglers in the Bridge Pool to return via several parks along the river. Just fabulous. This is TRM’s qualifying circuit to make sure tourists are fit enough to tackle the Tongariro Crossing, but you have to return in less than an hour. We will probably see you on the circuit – look out for TRM’s guard dog Juno.
Best entertainment:
See above – stroll along the Tongariro River Trail – an easy 5 minute level walk from TRM. Watch anglers wading in the pools while casting for giant trout. If the river is clear the wild trout can be seen from the river banks. Great entertainment.
Best thing not to do?
1 Do not approach and scare the Blue Ducks. The Tongariro River town pools are the only urban environment in NZ where these endangered species cruise around in nesting pairs. “Birders” visit from all over the world to photograph them.
2 Don’t ask the anglers if they will sell you a trout? Did you know it is illegal to sell trout in NZ. It is a recreational sport only. If you still want one buy a licence and stay at TRM and we will provide a rod to catch your own.
Best place for ‘happy hour’:
Turangi Tavern – pleasant friendly family hotel atmosphere offers an excellent budget menu or for mid-day caffeine hits there are 8 other cafes.
Best food:
Hare & Copper Restaurant on Grace Road – superb food with style. Book first.
For more budget minded tourists – Turangi Tavern cannot be beaten and offers such extraordinary value.
Turangi Bakery pies are world famous throughout NZ. Some regular guest (Hi Pat) buy them by the dozen to freeze and take home.
TRM inmates have been buying takeaways from the Hong Kong Chinese takeaways for our Chinese Banquets every fortnight (Hi Brian) now for twenty years and always return for more. Fabulous food.
Best cafe:
Creel Cafe, foodies heaven – healthy breakfasts and delicious finger food in an historic setting -. Taupahi Road.
The other four cafes in the Turangi CBD all receive excellent ratings from TRM inmates as well.
Best coffee:
TRM inmates recommend the Coffee Cart by the Tongariro Bridge car park – but they are all fishos returning famished from the river…
Best walk/jogging track:
Tongariro River Trail 3 km loop north of Major Jones Pool bridge is 1 hour, loop trail south to Red Hut Bridge to return via the Trout Centre – 10 km – 2 hours. Joggers can add the north loop to extend it to 13 km.
Just out of town is the 2 hour circuit of a hidden Lake Rotopounamu (Greenstone Lake) winner of the NZ Herald’s readers’ favourite secret touristy place (or something like that?).
Turangi is the most convenient base camp to walk the most popular one-day walk in NZ – the Tongariro Alpine Crossing – 19km of alpine grandeur, Mt. Doom, etc.. (But check weather conditions first as it is often closed due to ice conditions in winter. TRM have three alternative options – combine a river walk, a lake walk and a waterfall walk, which are just as good and available in all weather conditions.)
Best View:
Lake Taupo – the largest most stunning lake in the North, South & West Islands erupted about 30,000 years ago on a Wednesday – best views from the lookout on SH47 about 6 km from Turangi or from the lookout track above the Tongariro River or climb Mt. Tihia nearby (1165m) unmarked track (warning – do not rely on directions from SWMBO)…
Best Jogging Track:
Tongariro River Trial provides a 3 km circuit with a challenging hill overlooking Turangi or 10 km undulating or combine for a 13 km epic gut buster run.
ps. Most tourists cruise along on bikes instead.
Best Mountain Biking:
Tongariro River Trail offers everything for tourist bikers, from 3 km to 13 km., easy gradients, well-drained track, via the Trout Centre, surroundings vary from mature native bush, farmland, conifer groves, fern gully, swing bridges, and elevated river views.
Out of town are two gems for bikers – the Waihaha Bay loop (50km west) on the western side of Lake Taupo.
For a full day more interesting ride is Tree Trunk Gorge (35km south) to Pillars of Hercules trail, follow bush trails across the Tongariro river dam, through forest roads – this can be extended to 40 km all the way back to TRM via the canal under SH1 linking with Tongariro River Trail – a very scenic and challenging ride. Long after bikers have forgotten the winding route they will always remember the lunch stop – absolutely unique location and facilities only for TRM bikers.
The feasibility study cost-benefit economic analysis stuff was completed years ago for an extraordinary new scenic bike track – the T2T – Taupo to Turangi – along the Lake Taupo shoreline edge. This will become the most popular tourist bike trail in NZ. Worth waiting for. (2023 Turangi is still waiting…)
Best tourist hike:
Tongariro Alpine Crossing – 19km (need to factor in costs of a shuttle bus). It is so good that Taupo (50km North of Turangi) tried to claim it as well. It’s on everyone’s Bucket List. Can get quite crowded on fine weekends.
A better more challenging alternative option away from the crowds is to climb Mt. Ruapehu – ask at TRM…
Best place to pull over:
Mission Bay – about 12 km north of Turangi on SH 1 provides wonderful views over Lake Taupo – nature’s 100% pure playground..
Best Playground:
Lake Taupo for a natural beach playground or locally there are several reserves along the Tongariro River Trail – access off Taupahi Road. For younger kids a skate park is outside the indoor pool complex.
Best Kept Secrets:
1 The lower Tongariro River has the biggest Brown trout spawning area and nursery in NZ but would you believe Waikato Regional Council use it for a gravel quarry. True!. Only in Turangi. It just shows how many trout we have and how robust the Tongariro River habitat is – but quarrying should still be banned on a world class trout river. Tourist must keep asking at the iSite why?
2 Turangi has hidden the only underground power station – in the North Island just off SH 1 – a must visit for tourists but Genesis (the power company) will not let you see it. Why? What are they hiding? Tourists must keep asking at the iSite why?
3 In the first year it opened in 1970 the Turangi Museum attracted over quarter of a million visitors to view the best collection of pre-maori artefact collection in NZ. Now they are hidden away and locked up so you can’t see them either. Tourists must keep asking at the iSite why?
4 A new tourist bike trail is being planned from Taupo to Turangi (T2T) that will knock the socks off any other bike trail in NZ. TRM know it will become the most popular tourist bike trail in NZ. But why has it taken so long? Tourists must keep asking at the iSite why?
5 Tongariro river-side walk between Taupahi Reserve and Koura Street is better than Tamaki Drive or Oriental Parade. Look out for endangered Blue Ducks hiding along the river banks.
Best winter (?) swim:
1 For natural heated soothing therapeutic 100% pure thermal pools to soak in – go to Tokaanu 6 km west.
2 Or for more serious swimmers, the indoor heated swimming pool complex in the town centre is next to a skateboard park.
Best cultural experience:
1 Walk through Turangi’s mall past Sporting Life tackle shop (- Turangi’s biggest fishing tackle and winter clothing and much much more!) towards the Art Gallery and spend an hour admiring and selecting and buying the art works in the gallery.
2 Usually, if you want to judge the standards of culture of any place, always have a browse at their library and admire their dedication. Turangi library has everything that a much larger city library offers – it is the heart and soul of traditional culture in Turangi. Turangi is so fortunate.
3. But for a real Turangi style cultural experience SWMBO recommends the Turangi Tavern… for a local cultural experience of a different kind… particularly if the All Blacks are playing…
Best reviews:
Since 2016 an intriguing new book on Turangi has been published by TRM. Tongariro Skulduggery is a “mockumentary” about Turangi. It should be on every tourist’s “must-read” bucket list.
Turangi – a town with heart – DVD by John Ball – is now a collector’s item… (Could someone please return TRM’s copy?)
A Museum Underfoot – by Trevor Hosking – another collector’s item – all about a lifetime at Taupo and local archaeological digs and the history of Turangi during the Tongariro Power Project excavations and what they unearthed… only available at TRM.
Best Wildlife:
Trout, Rainbow trout, Brown trout, Wild trout, Trophy trout, Big trout, Huge trout, Maori trout, Giant trout, More trout…
Raiding parties of Tuis in Kowhai trees along the Tongariro River Trail are unforgettable in springtime.
Ask at the iSite for access to the swamp about 2-3 km north on SH1 where a keen bunch of dedicated greenies has demolished all the choked willows and converted it into a botanic Cabbage tree horticultural wonderland – it now looks like a Dr. Seuss designed wilderness garden.
Best Historic sites:
1 Te Porere Redoubt – on SH47 – see photo above – historic battle site where a Maori rebel Te Kooti built a medieval castle so the Government Colonial troops could find him. Both won?
2 Duchess Pool – Kowhai Flat – park in Red Hut carpark – the prisoners built a house for the Duchess of York (the Queen’s mother) to stay in 1927.
3 Cicada Pool – where I released my biggest ever brown trout. But I digress…
Best Garden Sculpture:
The biggest trout fly in the world on corner of Poto and Kokopu Streets overlooking the Tongariro River.
Just down river is the bench aka “seat of wisdom” overlooking the famous Major Jones Pool. This is better known locally as the Courtney Place bus stop. Whenever anglers rest there the passing parade of tourists have to ask them “Caught any?”. Hence the “Courtney” Place bus stop. Local humour… (For West Island readers, Courtney Place was really a prominent main shopping street in Wellington.) See photo below for a local residents (kennel club?) committee (aka in Turangi speak: “komiti”) meeting at the Courtney Place bus stop.
Visitors say:
When can we book again?
Locals say:
I came to Turangi for a week fishing 20 years ago.
Best images to reflect lifestyle in Turangi:
See how the stress levels have disappeared…
(1) Below – a corporate box at the footy… better than Eden Park!
(2) Below – a Turangi traffic jam…
3 Local resident native pigeon on Taupahi Road
